This Jamaican summer stalwart is all about spice, heat and char – here’s how to achieve smoky perfection

Serves 6-8
Prep 15 min
Marinate 6 hr+
Cook 25 min

Ingredients

  • 1 tbsp allspice berries
  • 1 tbsp black peppercorns
  • 4 spring onions
  • 1 small bunch fresh thyme, leaves picked, to get 1 tbsp
  • ½ tsp ground cinnamon
  • ½ tsp ground nutmeg
  • 3 scotch bonnet chillies
  • 1 tbsp dark brown sugar
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 2 tbsp dark soy sauce
  • Juice of 1 lime
  • 6 chicken legs (thigh with drumstick attached, or 6 thighs and 6 drumsticks), skin on

Method

1 Whole allspice is best

Start at least seven hours before you want to eat, to give the marinade a chance to do its diabolical work. Blitz the allspice berries and peppercorns in a spice grinder (or pound to a powder in a mortar instead). Ideally, use whole berries, because they have a much better flavour than ready-ground allspice.

2 Start making the rub

Coarsely chop the spring onions, using all but the very top of the green part as well as the white, and put in a food processor with the thyme leaves, cinnamon, nutmeg, ground allspice and pepper (you could also use a stick blender, or a large pestle and mortar).

3 Prepare the chillies – carefully

Don your rubber gloves: it’s time to chop the chillies. If you’re foolhardy enough to chance it without, wash your hands well afterwards, because scotch bonnets mean business. If you want to temper the heat, remove the seeds, but don’t be tempted to substitute for another variety: their fruity flavour is key to the success of this dish.

4 Finish the jerk seasoning

Add the chopped chillies to the food processor (or whatever you’re using for this stage) and whizz to a thick puree. Add the sugar, salt, soy sauce (dark soy sauce is preferable if you can find it – it has a richer flavour and will give your chicken a lovely tan) and lime juice, and blend again to a fairly homogenous paste.

5 Rub the jerk into the chicken

Put the chicken legs into a large bowl and pour over the marinade. Put your gloves back on (if you used them the first time, that is), then massage it into the meat, making sure you get it right under the skin – you’ll probably need to pull it away from the meat first to do this.

6 Marinate for at least six hours

Cover the bowl and leave it to marinate in the fridge for at least six hours and up to 12. Take it out an hour before you want to cook, so it has time to come up to room temperature, or it will take much longer to cook.

7 Get that barbie going

Light the barbecue, and allow it to cool to a medium heat, so you can comfortably hold your hand over the grill for four seconds. If you’re having a big feast, sear steaks, fish or seafood on it while you’re waiting, or do some asparagus spears, sliced courgette or lettuce halves for an accompanying salad. Anything that will cook before it burns, basically.

8 Cook the jerk over coals

Once the barbecue feels as if it’s reached the right temperature, cook the chicken until well coloured on both sides, then move it as far to the side of the grill as you can, away from the coals. Clap on the lid (if you don’t have a lid, improvise with a roasting tin, large terracotta flowerpot or frying pan) and leave to cook for about 25 minutes, turning occasionally, until it’s done.

9 Or, if you must, oven bake

Alternatively, put the chicken in a roasting tray, cover with foil and bake at 200C/390F/gas 6 for about an hour, until cooked through, then finish in a very hot griddle pan until charred and crisp. Either way, serve with roast sweet potatoes and/or rice and peas.